香港：让我怀旧让我忧

 

 

 

我在去澳门时曾再次折回大陆，重访我位于广东省珠海地区一个小村庄里的祖宅（建于1910年），这也是我此次东亚之行的目的地之一。在香港逗留期间，我有很多计划。我想去祖父母的坟上祭拜，还想去我度过童年时光的许多地方看看。

 

When I was in Macau, I crossed over into China again and revisited my Ancestral Mansion (built in 1910) in a small village within the Zhuhai area in the Guangdong Province as one of my goals on this Asia Tour. During my stay in Hong Kong, I had a number of objectives. I wanted to visit my grandparents' graves and many of the locations where I spent my childhood and see the changes.

 

 

我发现小时候住过的公寓已经拆除重建，而我父母的老商业楼在历经50年风雨后依然伫立在原地。在经过一番艰难跋涉后，我终于找到了祖父母的坟墓，按照中国的风水学，那里曾是依山面海的绝佳风水宝地，但现在从墓前放眼望去却是林立的摩天大楼而不再是广阔的海面。

 

As it turned out, my childhood condominium was demolished and replaced. My parent's old business building still stood after 50 years. It was a tough journey to locate my grandparents graves. Once backing onto a mountain and overlooking the ocean in accordance with the best Chinese Feng Shui arrangement, its frontal view was obscured by multiple skyscrapers standing between them and the open seas. 

 

 

我小时候常去的运动场和混凝土足球场依然还在。我甚至还设法找到了曾和父亲一起光顾过无数次的老餐馆，并在那里吃了一顿饭。此外，当地的许多寺庙和历史建筑也都完好无损地保存了下来。 

The playground and concrete soccer field that I frequented were still standing. I even manged to revisit and dine in an old restaurant where I shared countless dinners with my father. A number of temples and historical building were well preserved as well. 

 

 

我们逐一游览了朋友推荐的一些景点，这些地方确实让人流连忘返：

My friends recommended a number of places of attractions and we visited them together. These were very nice places indeed:

 

 

1）慈山寺——位于沙田附近的慈山寺是一座新建的中国佛寺。李嘉诚通过其个人基金会捐资$17亿港元用于寺庙的兴建和日常运作。慈山寺只接待团体预约游客。这座寺庙非常清幽，不像大屿山的天坛大佛和宝莲禅寺那么商业化。

1) Tsz Shan Temple – Located near Sha Tin, it is a new Chinese Buddhist Monastery. Li Ka-Shing contributed HK$1.7 billion from his personal foundation to cover the development and daily operating costs of the facility. This place can only be visited with advanced booking in groups. It is very private and not commercialized, unlike the Big Buddha and Po Lin Monastery on Lantau Island.

 

 

2）香港历史博物馆—— 位于尖沙嘴的香港历史博物馆对游客免费开放，馆内井然有序地展示了香港的发展史。游客在里面可以看到曾是英国殖民地的香港是如何从迎来第一批移民开始，一步步地发展演进至今。在参观许多展现香港特色商铺、交通工具、日常生活习俗和历史事件的展览时，我仿佛又回到了童年岁月。遗憾的是，这些展览都定格在了1997年——这或许是因为历史学家和来自大陆的新主人对于一些历史事件的看法存在分歧。除此之外，免费开放的香港历史博物馆让我感受到了浓浓的怀旧气息。

2) Hong Kong Museum of History– Located in Tsim Sha Tsui and free of charge to visitors, it provides very organized presentations of Hong Kong's past. Starting with the first settlers, it follows the development and evolution of the one-time British Crown Colony. I could relate to a lot of the exhibits on typical shops, transportation vehicles, daily lives, and historical events experienced throughout my childhood. Unfortunately, the clock stops at 1997 for the exhibits – probably a disagreement on the verdict for those events between the historians and the new masters from China. Other than that, it was free and I found it very nostalgic.

 

 

3）天坛大佛和宝莲禅寺——这是与香港机场同处一岛的“必游”景点，游客可以乘坐惊险刺激的缆车直抵天坛大佛。如果多花点钱，游客还可以乘上更为刺激的玻璃底缆车从一千英尺的高空直接俯瞰脚下风景。在穿过商业气息浓重的小市集后，我们抵达了禅寺附近，一些自由放养的野牛（野化农用牛的后代）热情地迎接了我们。由于这里每天都会迎来超多游客，我觉得对于想要享受悠闲郊游的人来说有点太过拥挤。

3) Big Buddha and Po Lin Monastery – Located on the same Island as the Airport, this is a "must" attraction to visit riding its breathtaking cable car ride up to the big buddha statue. For extra fees, one can even get onto glass bottom cable cars to enhance their excitement looking at over a thousand feet below. After passing through the small and commercialized shopping village, we arrived at the temple area and were greeted by some of the free-range cows (off-springs of farming cows running wild). There were too many daily visitors and I found it a bit way too crowded for a relaxed outing.

 

 

在同一趟旅程中，我们还游览了大澳小渔村。在那里游客可以乘船寻找中华白海豚的迹影（难得一见），但我们没有浪费钱去坐船。如果想要游玩、品尝一些小吃和拍一些美照，大澳绝对是不错的选择。

On the same outing, we visited the small fishing village of Tai O. This is a place to get boat tours for Chinese White Dolphins (only a few can be found) and we did not waste our money to get on the boats. Definitely a nice place to visit, eat some snacks and take some pictures.

 

 

4）南莲园池 ——位于九龙钻石山的南莲园池堪称高楼大厦钢筋水泥丛林中的一片绿洲。这座园林占地35,000平方米，与其北部的志莲净苑相连。南莲园池是依照唐代建筑风格设计，园内的池塘、罗汉松、瀑布、亭台楼阁和寺庙会给所有游客带来和地处喧闹城市中的其他景点不同的户外旅游体验。同时这也是另一个免费开放的景点。

4) Nan Lian Garden– Located at Diamond Hill, Kowloon. This is an oasis amongst the concrete jungle of skyscrapers nearby. The garden is connected to Chi Lin Nunnery to its north and occupies 35,000 sq meters. Designed in accordance with Tang Dynasty architecture, its pond, buddhist pine trees, waterfall, pavilions and temples will recharge any visitors with an outdoor experience unlike any other well within the hustling city. This is yet another free admission attraction.

 

 

总体来说，我在香港玩得很开心。虽然有很多东西已经改变，但同时也有一些旧东西得以保留。我在香港的亲戚和朋友都对未来心存担忧。中国大陆试图同化香港人以及他们的生活方式，但却并未成功。香港人不想放弃自己的身份、文化和法制，从而变得和中国普通城市居民一样。由已故邓主席构想的一国两制并未如预期得以顺利推进。最后一幕尚未上演，没有人能预测最终结果，让我们共同期盼结果不会是悲剧。

Overall, I had a fun time in Hong Kong. Much have changed but some old stuff remains. My friends and relatives in Hong Kong were concerned about the future. The attempt to assimulate the Hong Kong people and their way of life into that of the Chinese main land has not been successful. Hong Kongers do not wish to give up their identity, their culture, and their rule of law to become like regular inhabitants of a Chinese city. The one country, two systems created by the late Chairman Tang is not unfolding as expected. The last chapter has yet to be played out and no one can predict its final outcome. Let us hope that it is not a tragic one.